Circle skirts are a pretty easy thing to sew. So, why not add a bit more fabric and make a super cute dungaree dress out of it?
This post was a long time coming. I think the pictures have been waiting on my computer for over a month but now it’s finally done and I can present to you my first proper DIY. This is going to be a long one.
~1,50 x 1,50 m fabric (denim or another rather thick fabric)
2 zippers (at least 12cm)
10 snap buttons
a pair of overall clasps with fitting buttons
fitting sewing thread
pins, scissors, french chalk
a large piece of paper (e.g. old wrapping paper)
a pen, a big ruler
a sewing machine, iron
right side: outside
wrong side: inside
Step 1 – the sewing pattern
The pattern is rather simple and super easy to adjust to your measurements.
actual size – size + seam allowance
1. front part: 13x24cm – 16x27cm (you can definitely make it one piece from the start, but I wanted an ornamental seam in the middle); for reference (or changes), it should be high enough to reach where your bra straps and cups meet and (both pieces together) at most as wide as a third of your waist size
2. front pocket: 22x14cm – 25x17cm
3. back part: 7/10cm (top/bottom)x17cm – 10/13cmx20cm (again, you could totally combine them but I wanted the ornamental seam); they have to be mirrored!
4. skirt: measure your waist, add 9cm (seam allowance) and calculate the radius
→ subtract 1,5-2cm (seam allowance) from the radius, so you get the inner red circle
→ add your desired length (I went for 45cm) + 1,5cm to the radius, so you get the outer red circle
You actually just have to draw a quarter of the circle on paper. Fold the fabric along the green lines, pin the fabric and the piece of paper together, trace the cut out paper circle and cut the four layers of fabric all at once.
Then you just need to cut it into three same siced pieces.
5. pockets: the opening is 16cm; here is a link to download it in the original size. You can adjust it to fit your phone (or what else you want it to fit) or draw it yourself altogether; two have to be flipped!
6. waistband, back: 2/3 of your waist x 5cm – 2/3 of your waist + 3cm x 12cm
7. waistband, front: 1/3 of your waist + 30cm x 5cm – 1/3 of your waist + 33cm x 12cm
8. straps: 75x3cm – 77x5cm
Draw the pattern on paper (adjusted to your measurements, with seam allowance), cut it out and trace it onto the right side of your fabric. Then cut it out again.
Step 2 – the front and back
Take the two 1 pieces. Lay them right side on right side and sew them together at one of the long sides (gold line).
Open it, fold/iron down the seam allowance and sew it down (dark gold lines in the middle). Fold in the seam allowances of the other long sides and sew them down as well (dark gold lines on the sides). Do the same with the top side (light gold line).
Do the exact same thing with 2a and 2b.
Fold in both seam allowances of the shorter sides of 3 and sew them down. Fold in the top and bottom sides and sew them down as well. I did a double seam at the top, but it’s not necessary.
Place 3 in the middle of 1 and sew it together along the lines (gold).
Step 3 – the skirt
Lay down 4-1 with the right side up. Put down 5a on the left and 5b on the right (right side on right side; the pocket pieces should be turning downwards) 16cm below the top edge. Sew them down along the line (gold).
Do the same with the other two skirt pieces (5a on the left side of 4-2; 5b on the right side of 4-3).
Lay 4-2 on top of 4-1 (right side on right side). Sew them together on the right – 2cm above the pockets and all the way down below the pockets. Fold them open and lay 4-3 on top of 4-1 (right side on right side) and do the same.
Lay 4-2 and 4-3 on top of each other (right on right) and sew them together all the way down.
Fold/iron down the seam allowances and sew it down.
Fold/iron down the seam allowances on between the other skirt parts as well. When sewing it down, you have to be careful with the pockets, so you don’t accidentally sew them down as well. While sewing down the left seam allowance (blue), fold both pockets to the right (blue); while sewing down the right seam allowance (gold), fold both pockets to the left (gold).
Cut your zipper to the right length. Pin down (or use clear tape, as I did) the top parts of the skirt pieces, so they don’t get out of place when you sew on the zipper. Pin the zipper face down on the fabric. First, sew over the lower end of the zipper (light gold), then along the sides (gold). Use the appropriate presser foot if you have one!
Do the same with the second zipper.
Bring the pockets to the left side/”inside” and sew them together.
Step 4 – waistbands
Lay both 6 pieces on top of each other (right side on right side); sew them together on one of the small sides (gold).
Fold it open again. Fold/iron down the seam allowance and sew it down (gold).
Now fold it at 1cm from the top edge and iron over it to create a fold. Do the same at 4,5cm and 9,5cm (both from the top edge).
Fold down the 1cm mark and sew it down (gold).
Fold the 9,5cm mark up towards the middle and then the 4,5cm mark towards the middle as well.
Pin everything down and sew across the whole waistband.
Fold/iron and sew 7 the exact same way.
Step 5 – bringing it all together (sort of)
Lay the backside of the skirt face down and open both zippers; put 2 in the middle of it (on the inside;right on wrong side. It’s the wrong way round on the picture) with around 1,5cm of fabric overlapping and sew it on.
Flip it over to the outside again; align the middle of 6 with the middle seams of 2 and 4. The folding of 6 created a raised edge which helps to align the waistband with the main part. Fold the excess parts on each end to the inside – this hides the top bits of your zipper.
Sew along the top as well as the bottom edge of the waistband (0,5-1cm).
Now you basically do the same thing with the front side of it. Pin 1 to the inside of the skirt (right on wrong side), sew it down, flip it over, pin down the waistband (7) with the help of the raised edge, fold in the ends (don’t fold in all of the excess, just about 1 cm. You’ll need it for the snap buttons) and sew across the top as well as the bottom edge.
Step 6 – snap buttons
Now it’s time to add the snap buttons. I suggest you add two different size options, for different clothes underneath (e.g. jumpers) or if you’ve just eaten a lot.
Put on the dungaree dress; if the front part annoys you, you can pin it to your bra or shirt. Close the zippers and pull the waistbands to the fit you want. Mark the spot where the back waistband meets the front waistband in both size options (green).
For the positions of the snap buttons, you first mark s
pot a and measure the distance towards the edge. With this distance, you mark the spots for a-1 and a-2. Then you choose a spot for b and measure the distance between b and a-1 and b and a-2. Position them on the back waistband as well. Make sure, that b is far enough away from the edge that b-1 is still covered even if you wear it on b-2.
Now, you just have to sew on all the snap buttons.
Step 7 – straps and clasps
Fold in both sides and one end of 8 and sew them down – do it on both straps.
Thread each strap through the clasps.
Mark the spots on 1 where you want the buttons of the clasps to be and then attach the buttons to the front.
Now you need the help of a second person. Put on the dungaree dress and attach die straps to the buttons. The other person can now pin them to the back piece in the fitting position and length.
Take it off again. Pin all the excess to the wrong side of the back part and sew it down. You can also sew the straps together where they cross (if you do them criss-cross), so they don’t slip out of place.
Step 8 – hem
And as the last step, fold in the hem of the skirt at 1-1,5cm and sew it down.
And you’re done!
The dungaree dress is one of my favourite things I’ve ever made and I’m already planning on doing it in another colour as well.
Also, I have to say that I definitely underestimated how long it takes me to edit and write a proper DIY, but I’m really happy that I’ve finally done it and I hope you’re enjoying it as well.
If anything is unclear, don’t hesitate to comment on it because I am well aware that I’m not the best at English sewing terms (but I hope the pictures help).
If you try it out, please send me a picture or tell me how it went.
Until the next time!
Love, Jacky N.